For my first actual post here at Residence, I want to share something that never fails to inspire me. It’s Erica and Faye Toogood and their design studio, as it seems to always be brimming with fresh, cutting edge ideas. Last week they debuted at London Design Week, launching the 005 collection for Fall/Winter 2016 of their Toogood Unisex Outerwear fashion line, and did a very interesting interview in AnOther Magazine about that.
For the 004 collection they were drawing inspiration from their handy grandmother, who used to make her underwear from fallen parachutes during wartime, where the two sisters embraced the idea of mending and stitching together different fabrics to create beautiful and luxurious things out of recovered materials.
The 005 collection is based on a mudlarker’s findings. Don’t know that word? I didn’t either. It’s the title of someone who has a license to collect and bring away found objects from the bed of the River Thames. “We’re great collectors and like to look both back and forward” says Faye, re-examining the contents of the box which sits open in front of her. “You’ll find something from the 16th century and underneath it, a penny from yesterday. We were also interested in the idea of stream and current, is it about going with the tide or against it? I think our instinct is to go against.” The mudlarked objects appear re-formed in jesmonite and will be sold as accessories, while the clothes themselves are practical “vessels for collecting”. Every piece has at least one grommet which you could tie a discovery to, while there are more extreme versions which are covered in rings making the garment something which can be continually reinvented by swapping the objects attached to it.
The photos you see here are a mix of Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer, with the latter being the light flowing striped garments, and the former represented by details from the studio.
“We question everything,” says Erica “not to purposefully reject the way it’s done, but to find our own methodology.”
“I’m a kid of the 80s” says Faye, “back then, unisex actually meant an androgynous look – women in men’s suits, really. But now I think we can derive our own identity.”
Bottom images found via Mathilda Clahr