Väkst, a brand new restaurant in the Cofoco chain just opened in Copenhagen, right next to my favorite hotel SP34. It’s kind of a sister restaurant to Höst, which you all know by now, with a focus on vegetables without being dogmatic or forgetting the pleasures of a barbequed steak, the joys of full-cooked fish or the delights of fresh shellfish. The gastronomic centre of gravity is Nordic, and the vegetables of the season take priority. The heart of the restaurant is a large greenhouse, built through the two floors of the space, thereby transporting the guest into the sensation of a lush garden – right inside the city.
On the top floor of the restaurant, plants, growths, and leaves thrive in the light from the large windows facing the street of Sankt Peders Stræde. In the basement floor, the garden party continues; just like plants live partly underground, so does the restaurant. It contains a separate room allowing for private dining. It has a particular ambience, reminding you that you are seated right in the middle of the underground of old Copenhagen.
Year round, Väkst invites its guests to an informal, Nordic dinner surrounded by the dual atmosphere of city and garden. The floor is painted to resemble one giant tablecloth, and incandescent bulbs are hanging from the ceiling in chains along with sails. The tables are set with cloth napkins, cutlery from Kay Boyesen and different plates and bowls. Thus, even as the surroundings may remind you of an informal garden party, the culinary experience is stylish and thought through.